My Life of Brian Trip
Monty Python's Life of Brian to me is the greatest comedy
film of all time. I could watch it over and over again a thousand times and
still laugh at the jokes, situations and brilliant physical humour.
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| The Rribat in Monastir |
Therefore it was too good an opportunity to miss when I got
the chance to visit two ancient places where the film was shot.
Monastir Ribat
Built as a defensive fort to scan the sea looking for
invading Byzantines by Harthama ben Ayan in 796. The ribat has been added too
over time growing in size and shape; and in the 12th century the Kasbah was
added.
Monty Python were not the only ones to film here. Franco
Zefirelli filmed Jesus of Nazareth here too.
I was interested in the Monty Python film though and when I
walked through the side entrance to the ribat I looked up and could see the
tower where Brian fell out of while being chased by the Romans and landed in a
passing spaceship. Only to be later called ‘You lucky bastard’! Watch the clip here.
Outside the gates cars honk their horns and you walk through
the tourist area where sellers try and harangue and persuade you to enter their
shops. They offer titbits such as ‘best prices in town’, ‘no hassle, just
looking’ and my personal favourite ‘I have nice things for you sir, lady,
madam, mister’.
Once inside the ribat the sounds of the outside world
disappear and you are surrounded by silence.
I stared at the tall wall and all I could imagine was red
letters giant letter painted high up and all over saying ‘Romans go home’. Just
like the film.
Luckily we were the only ones there which added to the
experience and enabled us to wander freely in peace and explore every nook and
cranny.
| The ribat as seen in the film with a fake frontage |
There were a few boards in several languages about the
building work and the excavations that have taken place. Every so often in a
shaded spot you would also find a small potted history mounted on the wall.
The ribat has many rooms and rooms that offshoot from other
rooms. It was a silent dusty maze of hidden tunnels and passage ways.
Outside in the blazing sun stairways without handrails that
made my stomach churn when I climbed them and looked down were too irresistible
to not climb.
I clambered up the stairs and the view over the city and the
sea was impressive but not as impressive as the beach front where an old man
beer gut and all lounged in bright orange speedos. What a sight to witness
while inside an ancient monument.
Wondering the battlements I reached the tower and of course
ascended to the very top where a giant Tunisian flag fluttered in the welcome
breeze. Unfortunately the stairwell even though it looked clean stunk of urine
and made you dash up holding your breath.
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| Steps without handrails, hense why I am holding on to the wall |
Next stop was El Djem. One of the most impressive and best
reserved Roman amphitheatres in the world.
But before that there was one last Pythonesque moment when a
northern transsexual boarded out train carriage and spoke with a deep voice and
scratched her/his stubble and received many stares from the bemused locals on
the metro.
El Djem
El Djem took my breath away. It is truly magnificent
standing there looking out over the town in the blazing sun. A large looming
presence that dominates the landscape and had such a majesty and beauty about
it that I can see why Monty Python filmed here and why tourists flock through
her gates.
Smaller than the coliseum in Rome but much better preserved
(mostly because of the lack of earth movements) and most importantly it has
more access to the visitor.
You enter through the main gate and can either walk out into
the open air centre where a small stage was being erected for a local concert
that night or you can climb the stairs and wander and explore.
This is what I did and it was the best decision I made.
Three ancient flights of stairs later and I was all alone
with my footsteps echoing down the corridor bouncing back off the stone
archways above me.
As with most developing nations there is a distinct lack of
health and safety and therefore not many barriers or railings.
I have to admit I was a little bit of a naughty boy as I
climbed over a railing and wandered quite perilously close to the edge and out
onto the crumbling ledge.
It made for a great photos.
I looked down and was relieved that I had gone up rather
than straight into the open air part as now the place was teeming with tourist.
Most of which were Russians and many were dressed the same. Old ladies wearing
entire matching outfits including shoes and looking like an ancient Cheeky girl
tribute band wandered around posing in strange positions for the camera.
Luckily I was up high and away from them all.
After a few photos and another naughty trail clambering
moment I wandered down into the sunlight.
This in the film is where Brian meets the Judean People’s
front and confuses them for the People’s front of Judea. He is told to ‘Fuck
off’ in one of the films funniest lines.
| The Judean People's Front as seen in the film |
Of course I re-enacted the scene and was filmed doing that
line unfortunately it didn’t come out right. But here is the original. People's Front of Judea
Everywhere I went in El Djem and Monastir scene from the
film came flooding back to me. I could hear the words from the films and famous
lines. My head was full of jokes and a smile crept across my face and I openly
laughed out loud at some of the thoughts I had.
The only thing that slightly disappointed me though was the
complete lack of recognition at both sites for the film. Nothing was mentioned
and when I later spoke to some English tourists they both had no idea that the
film was shot there.
To me however; it was a comedy pilgrimage and one worth
every dinari. “Spare a dinari for an ex lepper”!
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